In The Fixed-Order-Interval Model Each Order Size Is The Same Enriching Your Snakes Life

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Enriching Your Snakes Life

Unfortunately, many snake keepers do not actually think about the psychological problems of their snakes. It is well known in the hobby that a large number of species of snakes are fairly ‘lazy’ animals, perhaps only venturing out of hiding for food, water, or a mate. This is a true statement for many species, and this habit will certainly be the same in the wild as well as in captivity. However, in the wild the snake may spend hours or perhaps days hunting for food, may travel some distance to find water and may spend weeks courting females and perhaps fighting males in the process. This article describes several possible ways to keep your pet snake healthy and active, ensuring little chance of obesity or behavioral problems caused by boredom or inactivity.

The first and foremost point is to ensure that the basics are in place. This means; a vivarium of adequate size, appropriate temperature levels that allow for thermoregulation, adequate humidity levels if necessary, sufficient food and water and a hidden place where the snake can retreat. Once these are all in place, it is possible to expand on each area, making life more interesting for your snake and therefore a more enjoyable viewing experience for yourself.

Many experts in the reptile industry will undoubtedly spend a considerable amount of time explaining to beginners and interested people that snakes don’t actually need a lot of space. It is widely accepted that snakes will live happily in a terrarium that is smaller than its own length, and I do not fully agree with this statement. In fact, many individual snakes will suffer dramatic consequences when placed in too large a terrarium. They often become so stressed they won’t eat, become very shy, rarely venture out of hiding, become too aggressive and won’t regulate their body temperature well which leads to more problems. It is important when resizing your snake terrarium that you are comfortable with your snake’s eating habits, and that he is comfortable with you as the caretaker. If so, I encourage everyone to expand the size of the terrarium they offer their snakes. The bigger the vivarium, the more hidden areas and decorations there should be. This will allow more interest and opportunities for more exercise. However, if your snake does not take to the movement well and refuses to eat, do not move the snake back to its original enclosure immediately. Instead, try for 2-4 weeks to let your snake settle in, ensuring the heat levels are appropriate and that there are enough hiding areas. I suggest for the initial movement that the decoration and hidden area from the old terrarium are moved to a bigger one. This will make your snake feel more comfortable and speed up the transition period.

Terrarium furniture will play a very important role in enriching the life of your snakes. You could try offering various substrate depths, types and levels. For example, you could build the substrate up to 20cm deep at one end of the enclosure, maybe held by some natural cork bark or stones, and then have a lower layer of 3cm deep towards the other end. Providing more than one substrate in the terrarium will allow the snake to move on different textured surfaces. Perhaps for a rainforest species; Bark chips can be mixed with soil and dry leaves. Fake plants are perfect for snake enclosures; they can be washed easily and do not get crushed if a large snake decides to sit on it. These plants can be hung from the ceiling or back wall, draped and wrapped around sticks perched across the terrarium, or can simply be placed in bundles on the ground to imitate small bushes. Having a number of basking sites in the terrarium is particularly important for diurnal species. These should be open areas under a heat source, preferably more than one area and should be directed to a flat rock, a hanging branch or even on top of a hidden area. It is important that any heavy items of decoration placed in the vivarium are fixed properly. However, allowing slight movement of lighter objects such as twigs and plants is only natural and will certainly stimulate the snake’s natural response.

It is important to realize not only what temperature your snake should be exposed to, but also in what way they are offered. In the wild, heat is obtained by using the sun, but this does not mean that a snake must have a basking area with heat or light from above. You should first find out where your snake comes from and the daily habits it would naturally go through.

Almost all daytime snakes will bask in the sun; That’s why only naturals offer a kind of spot light bulb in heat. This will mimic the sun and should allow the snake to bask directly under the area where the bulb is showing. The sun also moves throughout the day, which means that many times, the snake will also move. Often, diurnal species do not bask during the middle of the day; instead, they will bask in the early morning and late afternoon. By placing 2 spot bulbs in different areas of the terrarium connected to a timer, you can mimic the effect of the sun and give the snake the chance to look for a new, better basking site. If you have a big budget and terrariums to play with, you can offer more basking sites for different times of the day. You could even set the lamps and timers on dimming thermostats so that the output temperature can be decreased or increased depending on the time of day.

Many species that live at night or in rainforests will not bask in the sun, but should be exposed to a higher temperature during the day. Although it is recommended that you offer varying temperatures, there should be a general air temperature. This can be achieved using a power plate. A power plate is a 75Watt heater that attaches to the ceiling of your terrarium and provides a wider range of heat from above, making it more effective at increasing the actual air temperature than other heaters. Lighting should always be offered for these species, although in the form of a fluorescent tube. At night, a red bulb or moon bulb could be used to heat the background and allow a better view of the snake.

Nocturnal, terrestrial species that do not live in a rainforest environment often find their warmth on the surface of the earth, usually on flat rocks that have been exposed to the sun during the day and allowed to warm up. This heat holds for a few hours throughout the evening. Hot stones are available to imitate this behavior, although it is only suggested that you use these for a few hours at the appropriate time; generally as the lights go up to 4 hours later.

Water is generally offered in a small water dish that does not even allow the snake to fully submerge itself. Although this is preferable for many desert-dwelling species, other species will regularly travel to rivers, ponds or puddles to drink, bathe and swim. Offering water in a larger dish, away from the heat source will encourage the snake to bathe and swim more often, allowing for more exercise. Be sure to look for feces in the water, because many snakes will often eliminate while bathing. Allowing water movement through a pump, air bubbles or even a small waterfall will also encourage the snake to bathe and drink regularly. For rainforest species, especially arboreal species, a drip and/or mist system will simulate rainfall in the wild. This can be very important for some species that will predominantly drink from droplets of water collected on leaves or branches.

An important part of the life of all snakes is food. In the wild, snakes will have to hunt for a wide variety of animals. Some snakes can ambush prey; others will use sight and chase animals, while others will use scent. In captivity, eating live animals is not bad unless in extreme circumstances where the snake simply refuses all other methods of feeding. Feeding live animals to captive snakes would of course stimulate their natural feeding behavior; however it can be dangerous and is almost certainly not necessary. It is possible though, to recreate some of the snake’s natural response to food and make it exercise to eat.

Unfortunately, a large percentage of reptile enthusiasts are not educated enough to realize the importance of reptile stimulation in food. Snakes get most of their exercise through hunting and breeding, so if your snake is not used to breeding and eats by usually putting a dead rodent in its mouth, it will hardly get much exercise. This has caused a large number of reptiles in captivity to become overweight and obese, usually with the owners unaware. There are a number of methods you can use to both stimulate the natural sense of hunting and force the snake to move to the enclosure in order to eat.

If your terrarium has a lot of decorations and hidden areas, try hiding the food under foliage or in hidden areas. By rubbing the food on different surfaces of the terrarium, it is possible to create a scent trail. Try and make this trail as elaborate as possible, this will undoubtedly confuse the snake but will inevitably make it move more and get more exercise. You can also try hanging the food from the roof of the terrarium. It is not good to tie the food with string or other non-digestible material; however, a mouse tail for example can be stuck in the lid of the terrarium or some kind of clip. With the force of the snake that pulls the food, it should break. This will make it a little more difficult for the snake to hit, as the food will swing as it tries to bite it. If your snake has a routine feeding schedule, for example every Monday evening, chances are it will start to associate this time with food. This has often been recorded in large pythons and is a very dangerous situation to arise. Not only is it unnatural, but it can cause the snake to strike anything that enters the enclosure at that particular time, even your hand. Many keepers will see this as aggression, but it may simply be a food-triggered response. It is more natural to feed your snake at random intervals and at different times during the day or night (depending on whether your snake is diurnal or nocturnal). Try to keep regular watch over your snake, if it is being lazy and it is simply hiding all day, do not feed it. Wait until the snake starts to venture out and look for food without any food actually being there, this will encourage the snake to look for food more often if you only eat while the snake is roaming around. Food teasing is an excellent method of re-creating the movements of a wild animal. With a pair of long forceps you can hold the food item and move it, simulating the movement of the animal in the wild. If the snake shows interest, move it further and around the enclosure, enticing the snake to chase and hunt for the food. Once the snake strikes; shake the food violently to simulate a wrestling situation. At this point, the snake should coil around the food and exert a great energy to suffocate the animal. This method is the closest you can get to seeing the snake’s natural feeding method and it can be quite interesting to watch.

Handling your snake on a regular basis is a similar situation to taking your dog for a walk. It is a way to take the snake out of its normal environment to give exercise and an array of unusual smells. Many wild snakes kept, or snakes that are not used to being handled should have limits on the amount of time spent handling. The last thing you want to do is stress the snake out by handling it too much. Captives that are handled regularly will enjoy human interaction and the chance to move across different surfaces. On a warm day, take your snake outside in the garden and let it walk on the grass. Be very careful not to take your eyes off the snake though, the last thing you want is for it to quickly burrow into the ground or worse, be grabbed by a passing bird of prey. Being able to handle your snake will not only allow for exercise and scent stimulation, it will also allow for easier maintenance and veterinary care if needed.

It is hardly recognized that snakes need mental stimulation to stay fit and healthy in captivity. This article, along with your own ideas should prevent your snake from getting fat and from having any behavior problems.

We’d love to hear if you try any of our methods, or if you have your own method you’d like to share with us. Please visit our website and let us know how you and your snake are doing!

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