In A Break-Even Analysis Fixed Costs Are A Function Of How To Stop Roof Tiles Being Blown Off

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How To Stop Roof Tiles Being Blown Off

Wind pressure is a common cause of tile roof failure. As the wind moves over the roof it produces the resulting upward force roof The tiles rattle or must be removed completely.

Contrary to common belief, roof tiles are not “blown on” a roof. The wind creates an upward force as it travels across the roof, causing the tiles to be sucked upwards. It is important to understand this subtle distinction in order to build a safer roofing system. Securing tiles against lifting is the key to keeping the tiles on the roof.

As the wind travels over the roof area, it causes the air pressure on the top of the roof to decrease. At the same time the pressure under the roof increases. The increase in pressure inside the loft space results in a positive pressure on the roof tiles. The negative pressure above causes the tiles to be sucked upwards, lifting the tile tail. The lower the pitch of the roof, the higher the strength will be.

If the tiles were sucked up rather than blown, the old method of fixing the roof tiles may not be the best. Traditionally roof tiles are nailed or pegged to the top or top of the tile. This secures the tile against the force of gravity but has little effect on lifting the tile up. In fact the only thing that guarantees the bottom of the tile is the tiles own weight.

Tests in the United Kingdom have proven that a roof tile cut or secured at the bottom can withstand 5 times the force of a top nailed roof tile. The tiles can be cut or braced to ensure that it is safe against wind uplift. This also stops the annoying rattling or chattering sometimes associated with wind swept roofs. The chatter occurs when the tiles rise and fall in the vortex of the wind. I prefer to use a bead of silicone between the necks of the tiles to act as a second line of defense against tile cats.

It is important to note here that modern roof tile clips must be installed correctly if they are to have any effect. Tile clips are usually nailed in close to the blocking channel. Because of the risk of damaging the tile, there is a tendency to move the nail too far from the interlock. The clip must be positioned at right angles close to the tile. The roof clip should be properly bedded to prevent the tile from working loose. In my opinion, the old system of wiring the bottom of the tiles is superior to modern trimming. The wire is fixed in an eyelet on the bottom of the tile and in the middle of the tile on the support rod. This has the effect of clamping down the tile. I have wire roofs that are over 50 years old and the wire is still tight.

The most important roofing component when it comes to preventing wind damage is the roof felt. Felt roofing or sarking put under the sticks before the tiles are fixed. The main function of all felt roofs is to prevent wind damage. The waterproofing of the paper is far less important than its ability as a wind barrier. The sarking prevents the increase in pressure inside the loft, thus preventing wind uplift. It must be fixed well and overlap 150mm. An extra batten should be placed at the point where the leaves overlap to prevent wind from traveling between the leaves. If the felt is not properly secured the force of the wind will focus on the weak point causing more problems.

All ridge and hip tiles need to be mechanically fixed in areas prone to high winds. Roofing mortar alone should not be relied upon to keep these tiles secure. Once the bond between tile and mortar is broken the tile can be worked loose. They should be nailed, cut or wired.

The areas most easily subjected to upwelling winds are the leaflets, corners and ridges. In these areas, it is prudent to take extra precautions with fixing your tile. Nail and cut all tiles around the periphery.

A little extra time taken in the installation step will ensure that the roof tiles remain safe from the weather. The extra cost is outweighed by the savings in maintenance and pieces in mind.

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